Burberry to launch social networking site

The Financial Times reports that Burberry will soon launch its own social networking site, to be called Art of the Trench. This is a major step that all brands will be watching, because the future of brands will be written with personal platforms and social media. A Burberry social network could be a pioneering and potent force in advancing the Burberry brand, and its customers.
Brand strategy and social media
In this post I’ll take a quick look at the brand strategy and social media options available to Burberry in its new initiative. In large part, at least as I see it, the challenge for Burberry goes far beyond social media proper. It’s a challenge of brand innovation. Does Burberry intend to pour old marketing wine into this new social media bottle, or will it use social media to reinvent its brand to create new customer value? That’s the big question.
Pre-launch site and Burberry context
Here is Burberry’s pre-launch site, to give you a flavor. From reports, the new network is intended to make Burberry more attractive to customers by providing a Burberry-themed platform for social communication and interaction. Burberry already has 660,000 “friends” on Facebook to draw from.
For some Burberry context, watch the 9/16/09 “Customer of the future” Financial Times video interview with Burberry CEO Angela Ahrendts here. (Actually, watch the entire set; it’s illuminating.)
Burberry customers and the site
Burberry intends the site to be a form of online brand experience for customers.
“These might not even be customers yet. Or they may be a customer for a bottle of fragrance or for eyewear. But these are the customers who need the brand experience, who need to feel the brand. That word-of-mouth spreads through their social networks and continues to be a positive conversation [about Burberry] . . . that is so powerful.”
Source: the FT article above.
Post pictures of yourself in your Burberry trench
At this point we don’t know the full extent of Burberry’s “social networking site.” Will it operate like a slimmed-down, brand-focused Facebook, or will it be more of a (conventional) fan site. Initial reports say the Burberry network will enable Burberry customers to post photographs of themselves in their Burberry trench coats. That seems more like fan site territory, the low end of social media. (The high end is collaboration and value co-creation.)
Potential downsides of a fan site approach
To the extent that Art of the Trench becomes a fan site, (not that it would) what are the brand downsides? The biggest downside is the opportunity cost for missing the possible brand advances through a real social network, especially one focused on value creation. Beyond that, fan sites can be brand limiting unless customers themselves are allowed to show their creative modifications to brands, or brand uses. Is Burberry open to customer mods?
The brand is more than the clothing
If Art of the Trench focuses on pictures of customers in Burberry coats, one might then ask, “What’s the sustaining attraction?” The clothes are the same. And how will all those blurry amateur pics represent Burberry’s chic fashion sense, not to mention its exacting quality? Loopy pics might damage the brand. Finally, how deep is the customer “brand experience” in seeing photos of others in Burberry outfits? Might this undercut the Burberry identity so ably set forth in exquisite photos and videos of Burberry-adorned models?
Brand strategy first, social media second
Many brands (like Burberry) are moving beyond traditional mass-market advertising toward networks powered by social media. That stands to be a positive shift, but only if it’s anchored in a customer-focused brand strategy. It’s brand strategy first, social media second. There is no social media magic that can make a brand “come alive” from below. A brand cannot flip a social media switch and expect a stronger brand to bubble forth, like Champagne from water.
This raises another question for Burberry’s new networking site: What are the terms of Burberry’s intended brand engagement?
Social networks are not old marketing in new bottles
For brands, the value of social networks is that they have game-changing potential to create new customers and new markets, beyond old marketing structures. Thus the promise of Burberry’s initiative. As many companies also realize, social networks entail a culture change in brand approach. Pouring old marketing wine into new (social media) bottles won’t work. An “old” marketing approach will view social media as nothing more than a new sales and PR channel. In effect, social media becomes “social media advertising and PR,” a platform for using customers to advertise to themselves. In this “advertising from below” approach, the only connection desired from customers is the sale.
Unfortunately, when companies reduce social media to this level, brand trust often dissolves as customers perceive themselves as being (cynically) used to sell things to their friends.
In social media, the customer is an ally, not an “audience”
Companies are beginning to understand that the brand transition to social media ultimately involves a re-casting of the customer relationship. In social media, the customer is an ally, not an “audience.” The audience model is a carryover from obsolescent marketing thinking, as if the brand were an “act” in front of a crowd. A brand that considers customers an “audience” often finds itself resorting to theatrics to make an impression. Do these work? They can, for a time, but at the cost of a stagnating brand on a shrinking stage.
As allies, customers can add value back to the brand—many times over. It will be interesting to see how Burberry handles the “customer audience vs. customer ally” question.
A potential pitfall: Burberry outlets
One concern for Burberry is that members of its new network may be bargain hunters that flock to Burberry’s factory outlets. This outlet mentality can turn the brand conversation into a downward spiral of discount and price, where the hot topic is, “What’s the best deal?” The network can then become a force for commoditizing the brand. As soon as someone saves big bucks on a particular item, the entire network will know it, and may shop on price accordingly.
Setting the Burberry brand agenda
One question the official launch will answer is, “What’s Burberry’s brand agenda?” Burberry’s brand agenda will guide its customer approach, and will help answer most of the questions above. For more on setting the brand agenda, see here.
The Burberry brand journey
Perhaps the easiest approach for Burberry is to incorporate social media into a Burberry brand journey. In this strategy the brand becomes a force for joint cultural innovation with customers. Burberry leads this (shared) brand journey as a creative, social, moral and cultural driver in defining new horizons for its customers. In this role Burberry is “out of the closet” and into the veins. Burberry becomes “innerware” instead of “outerware.”
In this option, social media plays a key role as part of personal brand applications.
A Burberry smartphone app?
Burberry might also develop a smartphone app to give its customers unique cultural advantages beyond the merchandise. What might these be? A leading brand of style and fashion would surely know.
Note: I’ve covered related issues in Twitter and brand strategy.
October 7th, 2009 at 11:08 am
I just updated my blog about the “Art of the Trench” … the question is, what will this do for the customers? http://bellesandbulls.com/bbblog/2009/10/07/the-upside-of-social-networks/be
October 18th, 2009 at 2:31 pm
This is a great analyzation of Burberry’s impending social efforts. Thank you for taking it beyond the media imposed innovation articles.
A few things I’d like to comment on:
1. From the FT.com article: “Christopher Bailey, creative director, has commissioned Scott Schuman of influential fashion blog The Sartorialist to launch the site with photos of people in trenchcoats…WHY: to win over younger people, who may prove more resilient in terms of luxury spending.”
Pictures tell stories, they allow everyday people to share lives with others. Any one who engages digitally with fashion, whether your an indie fashion blogger, Lookbook.nu fashion iconoclast or a more traditional fashion industry professional, knows who Scott Schuman is and know the Satoralist site. The Satoralist site crosses multiple verticals and industries, include technology. Undoubtedly Burberry will leverage Schuman’s multiple audiences to generate awareness of the niche website.
2. You asked: “Finally, how deep is the customer “brand experience” in seeing photos of others in Burberry outfits? Might this undercut the Burberry identity so ably set forth in exquisite photos and videos of Burberry-adorned models?”
Burberry’s experimenting with user generated content. That a huge step socially. Photo quality isn’t something I’d worry about. Most users on sites such as Weardrobe, Lookbook.Nu and Modepass are stunning photographers. It’s natural that the content generated for Burberry’s network would fall in line with the creator’s style. Users of photo sharing sites attempt to create a certain aesthetic. They’ll put time and effort into the photos they create for Burberry. And I’m sure if they do an phenomenal job, Burberry will recognize a brand evangelist in the making.
3. You mention Burberry outlet stores and that they may lead to online brand dilution. Brands such as Gucci and Burberry make a large percentage of their revenue in accessories and leather goods that cost under $300 USD. It’s the same with sales outlets. Coach’s outlets are what have kept in a float in current economic times.
When a customer shops the main Burberry website or retail store, and then shops the outlet store, they know the difference in the product they’re purchasing from each location. Often times, outlet lines are discontinued items or specifically designed to meet a lower price point. I can tell Coach from Coach Outlet.
If Burberry focuses on what it’s goals and building attention around the products it wants online audiences to engage with – and purchase – it can be successful. I believe that the goal of ArtOfTheTrench is highly refined experience that focuses on a single item.
Luxury brands are about passion, aspirations and desire. They are also about creating experiences. Luxury brands are taking those ideals online and creating spaces for small concepts to live and flourish. And the web becomes clutter, I see real genius in luxury brands online marketing strategies. In a year, they will lead the industry in terms of online innovations.
Women always need staple items – a little black dress, a brown leather belt, a black wool coat and a trench coat for when it rains (why not make it Burberry?).
October 21st, 2009 at 7:36 am
Macala,
Thanks for the detailed comment. What interests me about Burberry’s Art of the Trench site (still forthcoming, as I write this) is that it’s an opportunity for Burberry to create customers, using its brand to enrich and shape the culture of those who choose Burberry style. To me, this can’t be done with poses or photos. Every run-of-the-mill fashion shop does that, and it’s mostly fashion noise. What I hope to see from Burberry is cultural leadership, where Burberry stands for a certain context of culture and leads customers on a unique and absorbing brand journey. A Burberry-powered social media site can be a powerful tool in this direction.